Exploring old Zanzibar City on Unguja Island

Stone Town was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000, due to its East African historical importance. I thought Stone Town would be the perfect first stop on Zanzibar’s Unguja Island as we’d get to explore the archipelago’s past and experience Swahili culture. Following our 8-day tour of Rwanda and an evening flight from Kigali, JJ and I arrived in Zanzibar early in the morning.

WHERE WE STAYED

Our hotel, the Emerson on Hurumzi was built in the 1870s as the residence of a wealthy Indian merchant. Sir Tharia Topan served as a financial adviser to the second sultan of Zanzibar and was the head of customs at that time. The hotel combines the elegance of 1800s period furnishing with modern comforts and every room is unique in design. We stayed in the ‘West’ room which had outside walls made from wooden latticework, letting a cool breeze pass through. The breeze was very welcome as daily temperatures were 30+°C during our stay. We also had a small balcony where we could take in the sights of Stone Town.

Fancy four-poster and breakfast terrace

DAY 1 – THURSDAY

After breakfast at the Emerson, we set off to explore Stone Town. Our first stop was the Old Fort built by Omani Arabs who seized the island from the Portuguese in 1698. Over the centuries the fort has had a few different uses, including prison and tennis club.

Inside the Old Fort and House of Wonders in the background

JJ on the Old Fort battlement

Next, we ambled down to the seafront via the House of Wonders and Forodhani Gardens. The House of Wonders was one of six palaces owned by the second Sultan of Zanzibar. Apparently it was the first building to have electricity on the island. This attraction was under renovation so we weren’t able to go inside. From the outside, it sure did look like it needed a lot of work. Prepare to be hassled as a tourist in this part of town, everyone’s a tour guide!

The final stop on today’s outing was the Old Slave Market/Anglican Cathedral. Stone Town was host to one of the world’s last open slave markets until the British closed it down in 1873. Visiting the onsite museum is definitely worthwhile, its exhibits make for an interesting and moving read (entry costs about US$5 p/p).

Slavery Memorial

JJ and I spent the last part of the afternoon napping before heading for sundowners at our hotel’s rooftop restaurant. We were the first to arrive and had our pick of seats on the Swahili-style cushions against the walls. The view and the sounds of the minarets calling to prayer made this experience really magical. There was a set menu consisting of delicious local Persian-Omani-Zanzibari dishes that are typically served at local wedding ceremonies. Throughout the evening staff explained various rituals and history accompanied by live Taraab music. Highly recommend!

Emerson on Hurumzi, Tea House Restaurant

DAY 2 – FRIDAY

We started day 2 with a walk towards the seafront to visit the Old Dispensary, near the House of Wonders. The building was commissioned in 1887 by Tharia Topan (the same guy that built our hotel). His intent was for the dispensary to be used as a charitable hospital for the poor. Nowadays the building houses a few gift shops and a nice looking restaurant. Unlike the House of Wonders, the Old Dispensary has been looked after and is a lovely site to stroll around.

The Old Dispensary

From the seafront, we headed to Darajani Market…..well really we just randomly stumbled across it. Navigating Stone Town is a game of chance ‘cos it’s an absolute maze. You have to love the excitement of never knowing what’s around the next corner. It’s all part of the fun of exploring a new place. The market had a variety of vendors selling all sorts of interesting things. There was everything from local Zanzibari spices and delicacies to clothing and knick-knacks.

Fresh fruit and locally grown spices at Darajani Market

After a few more minutes of wandering, we came across Mercury House, a childhood home of Freddie Mercury. The building isn’t open to the public but there are plaques outside that tell some of Freddie’s life story.

Posing in front of Mercury House

JJ and I escaped the afternoon heat by heading back to our hotel for a couple of hours. That evening we ventured out to Forodhani Gardens Night Market. After considering all of the food options there, neither of us were brave enough to try anything. We’d read way too many accounts of people getting food poisoning from the night market – no thanks! It was cool to just soak up the atmosphere in Forodhani Gardens and watch local kids somersaulting off the seawall. Instead of Zanzibar Pizza from the market, we opted for more traditional pizza from Tamu Gelateria Italiana (on Shangani St). The pizzeria turned out to be a great little find.

I found myself captivated by the history and melting pot of African, Arabian, Indian and European cultures. I loved the energy of Zanzibar City and the locals who always greeted us with “karibu” (welcome). However, I think both of us were ready for a quiet beach retreat after 2 days in vibrant, bustling Stone Town.

That morning after breakfast at the Emerson on Hurumzi, we were picked up by a driver from our next hotel to head to the east coast of Unguja Island. Read about our New Year’s Eve in the beautiful white and turquoise Chwaka Bay below.

More posts from this trip:

Michamvi, Chwaka Bay – Southeast Coast Sunsets

Jozani Forest National Park – Monkeys + Butterflies

Kizimkazi – Scuba Diving South of Unguja Island

8 Days in Rwanda – Primate Tracking

3 Day stopover in the United Arab Emirates

Pin this post for later:

Pin my packing list: