Following 3 weeks of post-pandemic catch ups with family and friends in England last summer (and my solo mini-break in Paris), JJ and I flew to Portugal for a “proper holiday”. Before heading down to the Algarve, we spent 3 nights experiencing the history and culture of Lisbon. Here are my itinerary and tips for a perfect short stay in the Portuguese capital.
DAY 1 – WEDNESDAY
By the time we’d arrived in Lisbon on a delayed flight from Heathrow, then caught a taxi to our Airbnb it was almost 6pm. Time to shower, change and find something to eat. We walked to close by Fumeiro de Santa Catarina. This cozy spot serves traditional Portuguese small plates, many with smoked ingredients. JJ and I devoured tasty classics like presunto de bolota (acorn-fed cured ham) and bacalhau (salt cod) washed down with vinho. I was loving Lisbon already!
After dinner we headed about 5-mins away to Time Out Market Lisboa for dessert. Obvs we had to get some pastéis de nata, and the ones we bought from Manteigaria were *chef’s kiss. Easily the best custard tarts we tried in Portugal and we tried a lot.
To end the evening we went for a stroll around Lisbon’s grandest plaza, Praça do Comércio. This bustling square was constructed in the 18th-19th centuries as an impressive reception area for arriving seafarers. The large central statue is of King José I, who’s royal palace originally stood here before it was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake.
Tip #1:
If you’re flying to Portugal and you’ve pre-ordered a Lisboa card, remember to collect it from the tourist information counter at Lisbon Airport. However, I’d only suggest getting the (€35) 48-hour Lisboa Card if you’re planning to visit more attractions and walk less than we did. For us it wasn’t good value or a timesaver – our discounts totalled €19.80 each and holding Lisboa Cards didn’t allow fast-track entry to anything. Lesson learned.
DAY 2 – THURSDAY
We started our first full day in Lisbon at Hello, Kristof – a cool speciality coffee and brunch café, less than 5 mins walk from our Airbnb. I went for their yummy healthy smashed avo with lemon ricotta and salad. From there we wandered to the nearest tram stop and took a 30-minute trip to check out Belém.
The first Belém site we’d planned to see was UNESCO World Heritage Listed Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. Entry is free with a Lisboa Card and I’d read that you can skip the queue. This wasn’t entirely correct. If you have a Lisboa Card you can skip the ticketing queue, but not the entry queue, and that queue was pretty hectic. JJ and I quickly decided that going inside Jerónimos Monastery wasn’t gonna happen.
Instead we bought tickets for Museu de Marinha which is housed in the westernmost end of Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. This maritime museum is divided into two sections; the first consists of historical artifacts and model ships, the second boasts amazing royal yachts and early aircraft. We found the museum fascinating, it was a great unplanned detour.
Next we crossed the road to Padrão dos Descobrimentos or Monument of the Discoveries. Opened in 1960, the monument pays homage to Portugal’s nautical exploration during the 15th-16th centuries’ ‘Age of Discovery’. There was a short queue for this attraction, around 10 minutes, but I feel like the views from the top were worth it.
Tip #2:
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos is a must-see for most Lisbon tourists. If you don’t want to stand in the entrance line for hours, your best bet is to arrive before opening (9:30 am). Pre-booked tickets/Lisboa Cards don’t allow you to skip the queue. On this day our Lisboa Cards got us; free return public transport to Belém, 20% discount off entry to Museu de Marinha (Naval Museum) and 20% discount off entry to Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument of the Discoveries).
From the monument we walked about 15 minutes along the Tagus River to 16th century Torre de Belém. Like Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, this UNESCO World Heritage Listed fort is one of the few ancient buildings that survived the 1755 Lisbon earthquake. Entry is free with a Lisboa Card. We were happy to just take photos of the tower’s exterior as the queue to get inside, like the Jerónimos queue, was crazy.
Around the corner from Belém Tower, is a memorial to the Portuguese soldiers who died in the controversial African colonial conflict 1961-74. What was known as the ‘Overseas War’ led to the toppling of Portuguese dictator Salazar’s prolonged regime. The war’s monument makes for an interesting place to stop and reflect.
That evening JJ and I went out for smash burgers at Neighbourhood Café (another highly-rated eatery near our Airbnb). Sitting out on the street in lively downtown Lisbon, chatting and listening to Neighbourhood’s playlist was such a vibe👌
DAY 3 – FRIDAY
Our final day in Lisbon started reasonably early as we’d pre-booked tickets to a couple of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Sintra. At 8:30 am we caught the 40-minute direct train from Rossio Station. On arrival in Sintra we made sure to have a substantial brekkie at characterful Café Saudade (opposite the train station).
As soon as we’d finished eating, we caught Sintra Tourist Bus 434 from outside the station to Castelo dos Mouros (Castle of the Moors). A single bus fare costs €4.10 for a 15-minute journey. Although you can get up to Castelo dos Mouros and Palácio da Pena on foot, the steep hike would be a bit draining and time consuming.
I’m really glad we went to the Moorish Castle first before any other Sintra sites as it wasn’t at all crowded. We had so much fun exploring the ramparts and turrets, and the panoramic views across the Greater Lisbon region were just stunning. Definitely our fave attraction.
It was a 40-minute downhill walk from 9th century Castelo dos Mouros to 19th century Quinta da Regaleira. I chose this palace as our second Sintra highlight, cos of it’s gothic architecture and fairytale appeal. Most of all, I was intrigued by the mysterious ceremonial wells, tunnels and grottos.
Although there wasn’t much of a queue at the main entrance because we already had tickets, there was a long line for the Initiation Well. I’d advise going as early as possible. Despite the wait time, it was entertaining to imagine the creepy Masonic rituals that were allegedly practised in the well’s dark depths.
Tip #3:
Skip-the-line tickets to Castelo dos Mouros are €8.00 each for adults. You can get a 15% discount with Lisboa Card if you buy tickets when you arrive but there might be a queue. We were able to use our Lisboa Cards to pre-book tickets for Quinta da Regaleira with a 20% discount. Lisboa Card also got us free return train tickets to Sintra.
For our last meal in Lisbon we’d reserved a table at A Nossa Casa in Bairro Alto. It was excellent. I don’t think I’ve had a better restaurant experience since. The flavours, presentation, wines, service and ambience were all top notch. Incredibly reasonably priced as well! Be sure to book in advance, especially on weekends.
When I was researching Lisbon, seeing live Fado music was high on my wishlist. Never managed to narrow down my search to a specific venue though. JJ and I were lucky enough to meander past Taberna da Má Fama after dinner. There was no queue, cover charge, or minimum spend and the performances were wonderful. We sat with a couple of drinks at the bar, watched and enjoyed – highly recommend.
Before heading back to our Airbnb, we strolled 10 minutes away to Largo do Carmo for views of the medieval Carmo Convent ruins at night. You can just walk up the stairs to the viewing platform (pictured above). There’s absolutely no need to queue for the Elevador de Santa Justa, unless you’re a huge fan of elevators or long queues.
In summary, Lisbon is a beautiful city with loads to see and do. If you’re heading there in peak season, the atmosphere is fantastic but the main attractions are sooo busy. The same goes for most European cities in summertime. Base yourself centrally and have a plan for each day to maximise your time. I can vouch for staying in the Santa Catarina neighbourhood. Our Airbnb was lovely, well located and quiet too.
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